Paroles de vignerons - Vinparleur - Winzer talk

The Pope still lives near Avignon - Habemus Papam 2013 Domaine Santa Duc

How far seems the times when Rhône wines rolled over your tongue with the weight of a tractor. Though powerful and full-bodied wines don’t bother me at all, I just can resist to elegance and finesse in wine. And that despite of all the great memories of the 90s, when we drank oversized bodybuilder wines while listening as loud as possible to the Cranberries, Daft Punk or Nirvana.


But back to the present decade in which all wines seem to be searching for delicacy and minerality like never before. A happy and successful search though, as can be seen, for example, in Yves Gras Habemus Papam, a Châteauneuf-du-Pape from 2013.

Restrained but present, it has a fine fruity-floral bouquet. My nose digs deep into the glass, pleased with the slight scent of pastries and amazed by some fresh berry aromas that remind me of Pinot noir. Tasted blind, I certainly would assign the wine to a northerly and cooler wine region, instead of thinking of the sandy and rocky soils of the Rhône. On the palate there is a mineral, lemony freshness, embedded in soft curves and supported by young, crispy tannins.

Habemus Papam Domaine Santa Duc

If I wanted to describe the wine in three words, my choice would certainly go to “harmonious”, “delicate” and “juicy”. Being a great taste already now, you shouldn’t underestimate its aging potential however.

To deal with both the freshness and the aromatics of the wine, you should match it with a fricassee of grilled vegetables, balsamic sauce and parmesan cheese. A Tarte tatin of mushrooms with caramelized root vegetables will do a great job too, while cheese lovers shouldn’t be afraid of a Brie de Meaux, truffled or not.

Veal kidneys in red wine sauce, lamb loin with honey and thyme, Linguini with roasted radicchio, mussels and black pepper...

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