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The “Clos l’Abbé” – #Champagne in #Burgundy style

17 May 2013, by Sebastian Nickel

I know Burgundy isn’t a benchmark for everything, but it’s a benchmark for Chardonnay. At least, as much as the “Côte des Blancs” in Champagne…

Being more used to straight and fruit wines from the latter region, I am surprised by the aromatic diversity and character of the Clos l’Abbé (The clos of the Abbot) . It’s the first “finished” bottle that Hubert opens for me for a tasting. The wine has gained a lot of fullness and complexity during the last months of bottle ripening. And I am sure, this is not due to the final “dosage”, as this wine is an “extra brut” with only 5 grams per litre of residual sugars.

In the glass, the Abbot shows elegancy and style through its bright silvery shining colour and subtle small bubbles. In the nose I first smell dried fruits, fresh apricots and almond paste, with hints of toasty and smoky aromas coming up after a couple of minutes. It’s a bouquet with both young and ripe characters.

Rich and smooth, the Abbot is rather full-bodied, showing a slight tannin structure on the final, which adds tightness to the mouth. The finish is rather long, with crispy acidity, delicate bubbles and slightly oaky aromas. All together, the wine has a very pleasant, juicy mouth feel, from the beginning to the end. A complete wine, a good companion of your taste buds, to be appreciated your eyes closed. It perfectly matches to creamy and delicate cheese, like Brillat-Savarin or Brie de Meaux, as well as lobster and crayfish. I would even dare to serve it on a pheasant or partridge with fresh boletus.

A wine that leaves its fingerprints on your palate, like a great Meursault…



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